Wow. It’s been a long time since I’ve blogged anything.
Sorry to anyone who missed me, but I’ve been globe-trotting, seeing the world, having fun, making a dime or two, sick as a dog, stuff like that.
Anyway, one of the things I tell clients and prospective clients and one of the reasons I stress to people that if they’re truly serious about correctly reproducing color digitally they need to hire a professional to set up their systems is that while good information is out there on the Internet, so is bad information.
Some of it really, really bad.
And of course as with anything else on the Internet, if you’re not an expert, how do you know what’s good, what’s bad, and what’s horrible?
Well, you don’t.
Now occasionally I wander through Twitter looking to see what people are speaking about regarding the whole issue of color management, and this morning in my wandering I came across this:
http://www.vintagemural.com/blog/wordpress/2009/05/09/tips-for-artists-the-best-way-to-print-your-art/
Now here’s a person who speaks with absolute authority…absolutely incorrectly.
But if you just stumbled across this, you might just think you’d found yourself some gold.
So let’s just start with a couple things:
“What is DPI? DPI is “dots per inch”. The more pixels, or dots, per inch, the richer, the more sharp and clear your image will be.”
Here’s a tip for you: If you’re ever speaking with anyone who’s attempting to impart their wisdom about digital imaging to you, and they don’t know the difference between pixels and dots, just smile at them, pat them on the head, tell them you hear your momma calling, and walk away.
In its digital imaging definition, a pixel is the smallest unit of complete color information in a digital image.
A dot is the smallest unit of individual colorant in a printed image.
The terms are not interchangeable.
When referring to a digital image, the correct terminology is pixels per inch, or ppi; when referring to a printed image, the correct terminology is dots per inch, or dpi.
Okay, so getting past that, the author goes into a long and convoluted explanation of why dpi (correctly ppi) is less important than actual contained image data. Which is true enough, but this explanation is tortured, to say the least.
What it boils down to–that most reading probably know–is that any digital image is going to be made with a finite number of pixels.
The author leaves out that there are two dimensions, but forgetting that, we’ll just say you take a picture with a ten megapixel camera. All that means is that at its max resolution your camera will give you an image with 10 million pixels.
So let’s say that would be 2500 pixels tall by 4000 pixels wide. 2500 x 4000 = 10,000,000.
And that’s what you’ve got to work with.
When you go to alter the image for print, you divide your total number of pixels on your longest side by the actual size of that side and you’ll get the pixels per inch you have to work with. In other words, if you took and image with this camera and printed it at 12.5 x 20 inches, you’d have 200 pixels per inch; at 20 x 40 inches, 100 ppi.
And how many you need depends on situation, but 300 PPI is always overkill. In the finest art situations, 200 is all you’ll ever need. You can go down as low as 60 in a lot of instances before you’ll actually begin to see reject-able pixelation in all but fine type.
Okay, so there’s that, but then the author goes on to explain to one and all that Adobe Gamma is just great for profiling monitors and the best thing to do is use Adobe Gamma to match a printed image.
Well, in a word…No.
Every element in every digital imaging chain is unique to some extent. In order to get proper control of all your color, every device has to be characterized and each characterization accounted for and put into place.
This process (adjust a monitor by eye and Adobe gamma to a sheet printed on an unprofiled printer) might work for the author in this particular instance, but it’s at best closed-loop, and the color the author is creating bears no relationship to anything in the world beyond the author’s printer and monitor.
And finally the author tells you not to forget to embed a color profile, and tells you do to that by going to edit > assign profile. Do that, and you can use the “standard profile” SrGB [sic] or you can use Adobe 1998 “which is a bit more color rich.”
Um…no.
As soon as you open an image in Photoshop, it’s already in a color space. It’s in whatever color space you had set as Photoshop’s default when you opened it, or it’s in its original space if you had Photoshop set to preserve embedded profiles and not tell you.
Either way, if you wish to embed a profile–and there are instances when you don’t–that’s the space you wish to embed. You go assigning another profile to it and you’ve just altered the way each and every pixel in that image displays and prints.
There’s actually more, but I think you get the point. And I’m really not trying to pick on the author of this piece; I’m sure they mean well.
But if you’re really, really serious about reproducing color digitally, and you’re really serious about doing it correctly, you’re going to waste more time than the money you think you’ll save by looking for your answers in message boards and blogs.